I want a Gromperekichelcher!  Luxembourg 2024

April 28 – May 1, 2024

I like to start off these reports with a light-hearted, whimsical, or insightful quote that has some bearing on the trip. I had nothing on Luxembourg, so I simply Googled “famous Luxembourg quotes”. Rosa Luxemburg came up. I’m not aware of any relation to the country, but the quote seemed apropos of travel, so I went with it.

It was never likely that Lynn and I would wake up one day and say, “Let’s go to Luxembourg”. But with a trip in planning to the Netherlands and Belgium, and with such great public transportation readily available, it was an easy decision to add this one on.

This was a brief visit with three nights in Luxembourg City (we like to have a minimum of two full days in a spot as often as possible). As such, we didn’t see much of the rest of the surrounding country except watching the landscape pass by on the train. We gave the city a good look during our visit, enough to get a taste of the country. I try to take in as many details as I can when travelling, still, I wonder sometimes if I am not the blind man describing the elephant by grabbing its tail.

Luxembourg is a small, landlocked, hilly country, nestled in between Germany, Belgium, and France. At 998 square miles, it is smaller than Rhode Island. Of the US states, only Vermont and Wyoming have less people than the entire country of Luxembourg. These aren’t poor people though. According to the World Bank, Luxembourg is the richest country in the world as measured by Gross Domestic Product adjusted for purchasing power (Purchasing Power Parity). By this measure they are nearly twice as prosperous as the USA. This was perhaps my biggest surprise on the trip.

Luxembourg became an independent entity in 963. Owing to their location in central Europe, they had constant interference from Belgium, the Netherlands, Spain, France, and Germany over the centuries before finally becoming an independent country again in 1867. Even then, they were occupied by Germany during both World Wars.

We took a six-hour train ride for the 240-mile trip from Amsterdam to Luxembourg City for $108 for both of us.  Crossing international borders within the Schengen Area is a seamless affair. We purchased our train tickets at the international ticket desk in Amsterdam Central Station without showing a passport. The Schengen Area is a group of 29 countries where anyone legally present can move around the Schengen Area without being subject to border checks. Coincidentally, it is named after a small town in Luxembourg near the border with France and Germany.  A flight is possible for this trip, though I can’t imagine going through airport hassles compared to the comparatively tranquil and enjoyable train experience. We enjoyed looking out at the pretty streams, farmland, small villages, and forests.

We stayed at Luxembourg City, the capital and largest city at 114,000. We quickly found out that all public transportation is free to everyone, citizens and tourists alike. The city center is small enough that it really isn’t necessary to use any transportation, but we did take advantage of a bus to visit the Luxembourg American Cemetery and Memorial a few miles outside of town. More on that in a bit.

Luxembourg City is a walkable town, well suited for an interesting day of casual strolling with plenty of opportunities for a coffee or a sandwich. We started our morning walking through the central park. The park leads to an elevated cantilevered observation deck that gives a sweeping view of the Alzette Valley. 

From there we walked along the old city wall, with turrets built by the Spaniards during the 17^th century spaced along the wall.  

The 500-meter Chemin de la Corniche is part of the old city defensive wall, also built by the Spaniards in the 17^th century. Today, is called the “Most beautiful balcony in Europe” (disclaimer: by Luxembourg writer Betty Weber). It certainly does provide a lovely view of the Alzette River Valley.

The Bock Promontory is a rocky outcrop in the oldest part of the city. Count Sigfried acquired the promontory in 963, marking the earliest origins of the country. Remnants of an old Roman fortification existed there then, near an old Roman road. The fortifications expanded over the next nine centuries, leading to Luxembourg becoming a strategically important defensive position. Most of the fortress was torn down in 1867 pursuant to the Treaty of London as a resolution for a conflict between Germany (Prussia) and France. This treaty also placed the country in perpetual neutrality. Today the Promontory serves as a major tourist attraction.

Also on our self-made tour was a visit to the Bock Casemates. Underneath the promontory are a series of defensive subterranean tunnels and passageways known as the Bock Casemates.  The first were built in 1644 by the Spaniards, and later enhanced by the French and Austrians. At the peak years of the late 18^th century, there were 23 kilometers of tunnels containing stables, storehouses, workshops, kitchens, bakeries, slaughterhouses, and barracks for 1200 soldiers. After the casemates lost their military use, they were repurposed in various ways. For example, over the centuries, they have functioned as a shooting range, mushroom farm, market and concert hall, and champagne vault. The casemates were also air-raid shelters during both world wars. Most of the Casemate was destroyed with the Fortress, with the remainder serving today as a tourist attraction.

We took the time to sample some of the shops, cafes, and pubs.  I had read that Gromperekichelcher was a popular dish and took the opportunity to try one at a small amusement park in the center of town.  Shredded potatoes, onion, shallot, flour, egg, parsley. Tasty! We also enjoyed relaxing at my namesake pub “Konrad” for a couple of pints and lunch.

The influence of the American presence in Luxembourg during World War II is evident as you walk around town. F. D. Roosevelt Boulevard was down the street from our hotel, and Avenue John F. Kennedy was nearby. Nowhere was the American influence more apparent than at the American Cemetery just outside of town. Luxembourg was the scene of intense fighting during the Battle of the Bulge, the last major German counteroffensive following the Allied invasion on D-Day. General George Patton’s Third Army suffered heavy casualties during this battle. A temporary military burial site was established, later to become the final resting place for 5,076 American military dead, as well as a memorial for 371 soldiers and airmen who remained missing (12 have since been identified). Following the war, the government of Luxembourg granted the US free use of the cemetery as a permanent burial ground in perpetuity without charge or taxation.  General Patton is buried here at his wish to be buried with his troops. Originally buried among his men, traffic by many visitors caused damage to the grounds requiring movement of his grave to another spot separated from the others.  This is the only distinguishing feature between his headstone and the others. I have admired the military cemetery practice of not distinguishing between rank or title amongst the gravestones. Medal of honor recipients have letters in gold, and Jewish headstones have the Star of David instead of the cross; otherwise, all headstones are equal. The grounds are immaculately maintained. It is a sobering experience to visit.

From Luxembourg we continued our vacation to Brussels. I’m glad we decided to add this to our agenda.